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torture museums Europe

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Torture museums in Europe

The endless security lines at the airport may seem torturous. However, they are child's play in comparison with what heretics and criminals would face in the Middle Ages. Medieval torture was in use both to extract confessions and to punish the convicted before execution. Torturers (who were often clergy) had a huge toolkit with which to practice their bleak black art. Nowadays, ridiculous torture exhibits are cleverly marketed all over Europe. They're equipped with scary and gory gear — but […]

todayJune 27, 2026 30

Andalucía

Columnists

Cultural treats in small-town Andalucía

The American image of Spain is Andalucía: the home of bullfights, flamenco, gazpacho, and pristine whitewashed hill towns. This southern part of the country feels more quintessentially Spanish than perhaps anywhere else. When visiting this area, I always make a point to venture into what’s called the Route of the White Hill Towns (Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos), a charm bracelet of cute villages perched in the sierras. Arcos de la Frontera makes a good starting point. Arcos is a […]

todayJuly 11, 2022 91

Güzelyurt Turkey

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Güzelyurt: Turkey’s ‘Beautiful Land’

Güzelyurt, in the region of Cappadocia in rural Turkey, is a town that has changed little over the centuries. Exploring it, I hike steeply down into a ravine, winding through a community in the rough — where the chores of daily life seemed stuck in the Middle Ages. Then, climbing up to a hilltop perch marking the end of town, I survey the view and marvel how the honey that holds this architectural baklava together is the community of people […]

todayNovember 3, 2021 55

Copenhagen Christiania

Columnists

Copenhagen’s Christiania: No cars, corporations, or dead fish

Strolling through Copenhagen, I come upon a parade: ragtag soldiers-against-conformity dressed in black making their way through the bustling, modern downtown. They walk solemnly behind a WWII vintage truck blasting Pink Floyd's "Another Brick in The Wall." I've never really listened to the words until now. These "soldiers" are fighting a rising tide of conformity. They want to raise their children to be free spirits, not cogs. Painted onto their banner — an old sheet — is a slogan you […]

todayOctober 13, 2021 89

Rome Italy

Columnists

STEVES: A romantic breeze in Rome

A statue of Giordano Bruno marks the center of Campo de' Fiori — my favorite square in Rome. Five centuries ago, Bruno challenged the Roman Church and was burned at the stake right here. With each visit, I make a quiet little pilgrimage, staring into the eyes of brooding Bruno, pondering the courage of those early heretics. When in Rome, I use Bruno as a meeting point. (I like to say, "I'll be sitting under Bruno.") Tonight, I'm waiting for […]

todayJuly 23, 2021 108

Sicily Sicily's food

Columnists

STEVES: Sicily’s tastiest treats

While food may be an art form in Italy, it's more like a religion in Sicily. Even if you know Italian food well, Sicilian cuisine will surprise you with its complexity — a legacy of successive waves of settlers and invaders who influenced the cuisine. The first time you find yourself choosing between fish couscous and spaghetti Bolognese on the same menu, you know you're at a crossroads of cultures. Thanks to centuries of North African and Middle Eastern influences, […]

todayApril 1, 2021 91

Columnists

Bruges: Pickled in Gothic

With a smile, the friendly shopkeeper hands me a pharaoh's head and two hedgehogs. Happily sucking the liquor out of a hedgehog, I walk out of the small chocolate shop with a €3 assortment of Bruges' best pralines — chocolate treats with sweet fillings. Belgian chocolate is considered Europe's finest. And in Bruges, locals boast that their chocolate is the best in Belgium. I'm always tempted by the treats in display windows throughout town. Godiva's chocolate is thought to be […]

todayAugust 30, 2020 58

Columnists

STEVES: A look into the tastiest treats of Sicily

While food may be an art form in Italy, it's more like a religion in Sicily. Even if you know Italian food well, Sicilian cuisine will surprise you with its complexity — a legacy of successive waves of settlers and invaders who influenced the cuisine. The first time you find yourself choosing between fish couscous and spaghetti Bolognese on the same menu, you know you're at a crossroads of cultures. Thanks to centuries of North African and Middle Eastern influences, […]

todayAugust 11, 2020 54

Columnists

Roman treasures in Nîmes

Most travelers to southern France's Provence region will visit Arles and Avignon, but ignore nearby Nîmes. While those two towns have name recognition and greater touristic appeal, Nîmes (pronounced "neem") feels richer and more authentic. A visit to this thriving town rewards you with impressive Roman monuments and peaceful, pedestrian-polished streets that feel like a secret between its well-heeled residents. Born a Celtic city around 500 BC, Nîmes joined the Roman Empire in the first century BC. Emperor Augustus made […]

todayJuly 30, 2020 50

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